Here are some "Old
Gardeners' Tales" and advice that can help us to have beautiful
and productive gardens without toxic chemicals!
Know your plants
and accommodate their needs.
Don't put shade-loving
plants in full sun, and vice versa.
- Hot, dry, sandy,
sunny areas: marigolds (self-seeding, too!) daisies, black-eyed susans,
calendula, raspberries, grapes, daylilies, iris, geraniums, butterfly
bush
- Full sun to semi shade, moderate moisture - purple coneflowers, some
varieties of mums
- Moist, shady areas - lilies of the valley, impatiens, azaleas, rhododendrons
- Semi-shade, moderate moisture - dogwood and above plants listed for
moist areas
Don't over-water
- Over watering
or watering foliage of some plants causes fungus and attracts pests
(roses, many vegetables)
- Most plants don't like "wet feet." If you have a continuously
moist area, ask an expert or search the web for the appropriate plantings
- Use drip and root irrigation instead of oscillating sprinklers
Protect roots and
conserve water
- Mulch properly
- Layering too much mulch around trees causes disease and attract pests
- Be careful of your source of mulch - mulch that is produced from brush
frequently contains the roots or sprouts of invasive species like honeysuckle,
wild rose, and even poison ivy!!
Don't over fertilize
- Even natural
compost can be too much of a good thing. Runoff from excessive composting
and manure is polluting our waterways. If you live near a waterway or
wetland, educate yourself about pollution regulations and best practices
Attract songbirds,
butterflies, and beneficial insects with plants
- Butterfly bushes
have that name for a reason
- Hummingbirds love a hanging basket of impatiens
- Sunflowers attract goldfinches
- Praying mantises (the correct name is actually MANTIDS) lay their
eggs on old stalks of mums, daylilies, and other upright plants. Watch
for egg cases when cleaning up last season's stalks and do not disturb
them. They will last throughout the winter and the nymphs will emerge
in the spring. Although mantids will eat any insects, including beneficials,
they are pest-devouring machines and should be welcome in a garden!
Plants have eccentricities,
too
- Once again, know
your plants. Pesticide manufacturers would rather that you bought their
products, when there are some very easy things you can do to prevent
pests and fungus. For example, after germination and formation of blossoms,
cantaloupe likes its foliage to stay dry. Place black plastic around
the plants, leaving only an opening for rainwater to get to the roots.
This also helps deter pests like cutworms and beetles.
Know your enemies
- Study up on pests
and low-tech, nonchemical management. For example, there is an effective
nonchemical preventive for the cutworms that can devastate a garden
in one night. Till the soil several weeks before you intend to plant
tender vegetables like beans and tomatoes. Leave the soil alone, then
till again just before planting. No cutworms!
- GYPSY MOTH Caterpillars
(larvae) - ACT BEFORE the hatched caterpillars grow and begin eating
the leaves of trees. In New Jersey, gypsy moths lay their eggs from
June to August. The egg clusters overwinter and caterpillars emerge
mid-to late April. Egg masses that are within reach can be destroyed
without toxic chemicals. In the fall, winter, or early spring, check
your property, particularly shaded areas-tree trunks, sides of buildings,
even large stones. If you see buff-colored splotches, they are probably
gypsy moth egg masses. By mid- to late-April you will see tiny black
caterpillars moving. Look closely, as they are extremely small at this
time. At this stage, they can be destroyed by spraying with rubbing
alcohol, or even washing flat surfaces with soap and water. If tents
are already in your trees, they can be opened and sprayed with alcohol.
It may be distasteful, but the caterpillars will not hurt you and you
can avoid using toxic products.
- ANTS - Instead of spraying, pour hot water in the cracks of patios
or sidewalks where ants may have built their hills.
Weeds and unwanted
grass growing through sidewalks and patios? Invasives harassing you?
Spot treat with white vinegar. Safer and cheaper than chemical herbicides.
Even a solution diluted with water to half strength can be effective.
But BEWARE-treat only the areas you want to be vegetation-free, and
if using a spray bottle, use it on a calm day so as to prevent drift.
Although not poisonous, vinegar is a defoliant and will kill desirable
plants and grass. Vinegar is acidic, so it lowers the ph of soil.
Click
below to see beautiful natural NJ areas which are pesticide-free!